To soak up the ambience, nab a bar seat and order a fresh-squeezed margarita or the barely sweet sidecar. The drinks, served with a little extra in the shaker, anticipate the aptly executed menu, which emphasizes comfort foods of a bygone era--veggies, for example, include crisp Brussels sprouts, shredded beets and bubbling-hot scalloped potatoes. An entree of plump scallops, sauteed with morsels of bacon and served atop a corn, lima bean and tomato succotash deserves applause, as does the crispy duck, though it's more juicy than crispy.